Short travel report from Iran in May 2022
Short Travel Report from Iran in May 2022
A bold thought, in these times, to undertake a two-week trip to Iran. What one can currently read and hear about Iran, for example from the Federal Foreign Office: "There is a risk for German nationals of being hindered from entering Iran or being arbitrarily arrested, interrogated, and potentially sentenced to long prison terms" or "Non-essential travel to Iran is not recommended. However, I was firmly determined to finally venture on a journey to the Middle East. In Iran, these concerns did not materialize, and all expectations were far exceeded. We always stayed in top-notch accommodations with excellent, attentive service, and were greeted with great courtesy, as if among long-time friends.
My first experiences in a region of the Orient, in Egypt, with an educated tour guide who accompanied us in Cairo and on a Nile cruise, whetted my appetite for these ancient cultures. Iran, the land of the Persians with their equally millennia-old history, is different. It has always been my desire to travel to the region of the Middle East and the Orient, preferably to Lebanon or even Israel. However, that would currently be a truly dangerous adventure. In Iran, on the other hand, there is absolutely no sign of unrest like there. On the contrary, upon entry, we were waved through just like a Munich car at the Salzburg border.
The most striking thing when entering Iran is the portraits of Ayatollahs Khomeini and Khamenei. They adorn almost every house. Over time, one becomes accustomed to it.
Teheran, Isfahan, Kashan, Yazd, and finally Shiraz. Overwhelming are the impressions in these vibrant cities, where cars maneuver through the mostly unmarked five-lane roads with only centimeters of space between them. There is never an accident, even when it seems imminent. Each city has its own characteristics. In Shiraz, one feels as if encountering a prosperous Western city. Well-dressed, youthful-looking, and beautiful, cheerful people engage in their activities.As you wander around, European-looking visitors are frequently approached by curious locals, who often inquire about their origin. "Oh, Germany!" they exclaim with a wistful tone as they bid farewell. Everyone seems to have a desire to go there. However, in reality, what they truly yearn for is freedom and democracy. If that were to prevail one day, it is likely that no one would feel the need to leave anymore. Someone who is born and raised there might not have any longing for Europe anymore.
We encountered the people in Iran with such a warm and welcoming manner, which is rarely found in a foreign country. In my younger years, I primarily associated this historical country with Persian carpets and excellent doctors who studied in Düsseldorf and settled there after completing their medical degrees. However, I was shown a completely different world there. We were fortunate to immerse ourselves in the Persian world as a small group of six people, guided by our tour guide Shadi Pelikan. She familiarized us with Persian history and vividly brought Persian culture to life. She constantly took care of each and every one of us, and it was important to her that everyone felt comfortable.We felt so well taken care of and at home, as if we were in our own country. Her storytelling during our stays in Tehran, Kashan, Isfahan, Yazd, and Shiraz will remain deeply ingrained in our memories.There were so many impressions, encounters, images, and moments in all the places with their architectural wonders and gardens.
Shadi took us to the best restaurants in the evenings, where there were live bands, singers, and a nearly festive atmosphere. Yes, on occasion, there was even cautious but lively dancing. Even though it is not allowed in Iran, where alcoholic beverages cannot be served, the atmosphere resembled that of a Bavarian beer tent.
Yes, the grand gardens, especially in Yazd and Shiraz, attract a crowd of locals as they flock to the ticket counters for entry. It's a vibrant scene with many Iranians and notably open-minded, mostly beautiful female students who approached us cheerfully and playfully, often in groups of four or five, seeking to take selfies with us. They would then gather around their smartphones, joking and admiring their "captured treasure." At times, they playfully let their hijabs slip backward, but they tend to obediently pull them back over their heads as required by the law. There is hardly any danger, as in these open-minded cities with many young people, there are hardly any morality police officers who scrutinize the correct attire.In addition to the numerous admirable mosques and gardens, what impressed me the most were the wind catchers (wind towers) of Yazd, which have been providing natural cooling for houses for centuries. The tall cypress trees, pomegranate trees, and hedges along the large fountain leading to the 35-meter-high wind tower, the tallest in Iran, were also captivating. The wind tower, constructed with adobe bricks, acts like a massive octagonal chimney, drawing hot air upwards and allowing cool air to flow down.
The countless kilometers of bustling bazaar streets are also part of the diverse cultural history, and Shadi enthusiastically guided us through them. Despite the crowdedness of visitors, even buzzing mopeds manage to navigate through the narrow lanes, undisturbed in their path. The merchants are remarkably unintrusive and offer genuine goods, as far as I could perceive. One receives guidance and advice as if in a specialized shop. I purchased Persian handicrafts there, such as small enamel bowls lovingly hand-painted, and I take joy in seeing them every day.
What remains deeply ingrained in memory are the gardens, yes, the many beautiful gardens in the well-maintained, clean cities, and of course, the mosques with their surrounding areas. Every day, until late into the night, both the Joubi Bridge and the Khajoo Bridge in Isfahan are as crowded as the Eiffel Tower in Paris. The unique illumination of these bridges is a sight to behold. It's an experience one must witness. Both bridges were within walking distance from our hotel.
Was nachhaltig in Erinnerung bleibt, sind die Gärten, ja, die vielen wunderschönen Gärten in den gepflegten, sauberen Städten, und natürlich die Moscheen mit ihren umliegenden Bereichen. Jeden Tag, bis spät in die Nacht hinein, sind sowohl die Joubi-Brücke als auch die Khajoo-Brücke in Isfahan genauso überfüllt wie der Eiffelturm in Paris. Die einzigartige Beleuchtung dieser Brücken ist ein Anblick, den man gesehen haben muss. Es ist eine Erfahrung, die man erleben sollte. Beide Brücken waren zu Fuß von unserem Hotel aus erreichbar.
